![]() ![]() But we will see.The 2.4L PowerTech is a double overhead camshaft with hydraulic lifters and four valves per cylinder design. Really would like to be driving this weekend. Will be trying again after work and see where it takes me. But sitting here now I think one of the pulleys that came with the kit has a couple of bolt holes, so I might have to try to get that off as well from behind the cover.I had not expected this amount of access problems, and thought getting the timing belt in to be the biggest pain. I am going to see if I can loosen the back cover for the timing belt and see if I can get to them without pulling anymore. I can't get my impact on them, or get them to a place that I can. I don't have the right tool to loosen the bolts on them so I decided it was time form a cocktail and just sit and think about it. If I replace the water pump, I have to pull the gears off of the camshafts. It took forever to get out and I am sure it will be as much fun getting it back in. The right side mount just about did me in. Every time I took a bolt out I would find that I needed to take so,methimg else off to get at it. What a pain in the butt so far, jacking the engine up and down to get my hands on stuff. Also if the bracket the tensioner mounts too is worn by the spring, change it. If you flip them over for the 2.0 side, theĭepth will be different. If not you can use a ratchet to put the tensioner pin back in to readjust the belt.īe careful, Chrysler decided to use the same cam pulleys on the 2.0 and 2.4. Make sure the timing marks still line up. When everything is installed, rotate the engine 3-4 times using the crankshaft only, find a spacer for the damper bolt and Sometimes the o-ring for the water pump won’t stay If you need the torque specs, let one of us know, it’s real critical. It’s advised to change everything in that area, because you don’t want to do it all over again.įront main and cam seals, water pump, (its driven by the timing belt) timing belt, both idler and tensioner pulleys. The damper has a hollowĬenter for a certain depth and the tool has different size rods for this. The puller is a lifesaver, you can get a free loaner at most auto parts stores that loan tools. Valve to valve yes, but from reading, its not a problem. There is no piston to valve interference. Luckily it was the 2.4, it’s a noninterference engine per say. Thinking of replacing the water pump while I am in there. Seems like a lot of getting stuff out of the way just to get to it, but pretty simple stuff once I get in there.Īlso I am hoping that I can just loosen up the tensioner and slide on the new belt. I have a few weeks before I can get to it and have to be done the day I doing it. But if its the real deal way to go then I want to have everything I need when I start this process. I have a few pullers, but am interested in what makes this one so much better? I was raised in far,m country where we get it done with what we have. So my questions about this before I start isġ- how do I get everything lined back up to the right marks before I put the new belt on?Ģ- I see in a few posts that a special tool to pull the balancer is suggested. It had not moved, so I know the belt is screwed up at the crank shaft. Cranked the engine a bit and checked it again. I got it opened up enough that I could put a mark on it with a pen. I loosened up the cover on top over the belt to look at it. After reading, I checked all the fuses and swapped the relays. Got it towed home and set in the driveway, and started looking for reasons it would die. Luckily I got it to the side of the road. When I hit the gas it sputtered and died. Just came out of a school zone andwent to get back up to speed, the dash bell dinged and iI saw the check engine light had come on. I was driving down the road the other day, minding my own business. Unless of course it is already the second belt.Ī little back story. So from what I am reading, I am lucky to have gotten this far with the belt. I bought it 97,000 miles and have 133,400 on it. ![]()
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